sawyl: (Default)
Wow but the Munich Boulder World Cup really delivered a fantastic end-of-season sensation. The semi-finals were pretty exciting, especially with Alex Megos making one of his rare competition appearances and then staying on to commentate on the men's finals.

The women's finals were a bit of a mixed bag — afterwards, Alex Puccio said she felt a little bit embarrassed that she couldn't even work out how to pull on to one of the problems — but it was fun to watch Stasa Gejo and Janja Gambret crushing problems no-one else was able to touch.

The men's finals, on the other hand, were absolutely fantastic, with Jan Hojer, the only European to make the last round — four members of Team Japan made it through — climbing in front of a German crowd. And it really seemed to help: he used a very sneaky beta to top the first boulder; flashed the second, where no-one else even picked up a bonus; and cleaned up on the third, leaving him with a one boulder lead going into the last round.

Climbing second after Yoshiyuki Ogata, Hojer came out looking distinctly nervous and, with everything to play for, powered his way up top to take the win. It was one of the best finishes of the season — up there with Coxey and Chon in Mumbai — and so well deserved, especially after his storming performance in the lead world cup in Villars.
sawyl: (Default)
Having chanced to way up early this morning, I caught the livestream of qualification round of the bouldering world cup from Mumbai. The round was fascinating — it was good to see Katja Kadic doing well and to see Alexey Rubtsov making it through to finals. Shauna Coxey didn't look greatly troubled, picking up the overall competition win partway through — with Janja Gambret not competing, she only needed to finish 9th to clinch it — with Chon Jongwon looking very strong in the men's competition.

With the finals on at a reasonable time, I decided to watch the stream while defrosting the fridge — a task that has needed doing for quite some time. The results were spot on, with good separation between the clinmbers and the definitive result going right down to the wire in the best possible way — I've really warmed to the four minutes flat format — it makes the finish more exciting; it keeps everything to time; and it allows the setters to create problems with a moves that might have been used as rests in the old five plus format.
sawyl: (A self portrait)
On the back of her recent successes in the bouldering world cup, the Observer has a piece on Shauna Coxey.
sawyl: (A self portrait)
Never normally an armchair sports person, I've suddenly got very into the 2016 IFSC bouldering world cup. I watched the finals from Meiringen at the weekend and now I've moved on to last week's comp from Japan.

Not normally an armchair sports enthusiast, I've surprised myself by getting into the 2016 IFSC bouldering world cup. Having watched the finals from Switzerland, I got around to watching the semis from Tokyo over the weekend:

Kazo semi-finals )

And I've just finished the finals — which, unusually, split the men's and women's competitions rather than running them size-by-size resulting in a much better viewing experience: no more cutting a way from a competitor just as they are about to top out in favour of someone else falling off!

Kazo finals )

The results are amazing, especially in the women's comp where Shauna Coxey is on astonishing form...

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