Climbing hard
Mar. 4th, 2016 07:45 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
sawylWhat was supposed to have been gentle bouldering, with the completion a couple of projects, turned into a stamina session after I switched to route climbing. Initially the bouldering went reasonably well and I settled on a solid beta for the opening section of a burly, slopey font 6b, only to consistently mess up the top section. After an hour of trying, I was starting to feel it and switched to climbing routes on the auto-belays.
I flashed a few easy routes, tried a 6c made up of nothing but slopers and very tiny fingery holds. I fell off, a combination of tiredness from the bouldering and a failure to read the route properly, but I enjoyed the attempt. I then switched to repeating the same routes again and again, until I kept falling off, starting with 6s and dropping back to 5s and finally 4+s as I got more and more exhausted.
It feels exactly the sort of thing I need to do, not only to work my strength and endurance but to get my falling confidence up — auto-belays feel far more like leading than top-rope with a human belayer and, coupled with bouldering, are probably good way to start to get myself back into the right mindset for climbing hard.
I flashed a few easy routes, tried a 6c made up of nothing but slopers and very tiny fingery holds. I fell off, a combination of tiredness from the bouldering and a failure to read the route properly, but I enjoyed the attempt. I then switched to repeating the same routes again and again, until I kept falling off, starting with 6s and dropping back to 5s and finally 4+s as I got more and more exhausted.
It feels exactly the sort of thing I need to do, not only to work my strength and endurance but to get my falling confidence up — auto-belays feel far more like leading than top-rope with a human belayer and, coupled with bouldering, are probably good way to start to get myself back into the right mindset for climbing hard.
