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Another fairly early start to get to Emporios ahead of the worst of the weather. Pulling out of the shelter of Palionisos, we hit northerly winds of 15-20 knots and some decent waves. Wimping out of beating our way north, we motored until we reached Leros, where we put up the genoa. With a bit of tweaking - I wasn't impressed with my parents initial attempts at sail-setting - we were able to get up to 6.5 knots. As we came round the top of Kalymnos, we gybed to head south for Emporios, dropping the sail as we came about east to head between Kalavros and the island.


In Emporios we picked up another buoy and went into town for a look around. We had lunch at Kostas Taverna, where I had gigantes, baked feta, and fried aubergine and zucchini. Just down from us were an American couple talking climbing with a group of Germans on the next table. The Americans ordered, on the say-so of their neighbours, stuffed kalamari. When it arrived the man clearly had no idea what it was or where to start, so my mum went over to explain the situation!

After lunch we headed back to the boat and had a gentle afternoon while the wind got up. We went for late swim, I took a load of photos - including a cracking one of the rising moon - before home-made spaghetti for supper.


By evening, the wind had really got up - gusts over 25 knots - with the Turkish forecasts promising a drop back to the 15 kn ranges we'd seen earlier in the day. Here's hoping...
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