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Enjoyable afternoon spent mixing bouldering with route climbing. I managed to send a 6C with a trick crux that I'd looked at on Thursday but hadn't actually done, and I also managed to nail a 6A+ whose first few moves were surprisingly powerful for the grade. I also put in a bunch of time on the routes, trying to improve my stamina, and then wound down with some finger training and core work.

As I was winding down, Gavin dropped in on his off day to do a bit of bouldering and then Richard appeared, briefly at first because he wanted to drop off his kit before checking out his daughter's boyfriend's new car, before returning for a hardcore session. I then hung around for a chat while they crushed pretty much everything — with the exception of a very hard 7B+ double dyno problem — the bouldering room had to offer.

It was interesting seeing the contrast between their very different styles: Gav is my height, very controlled, very strong, with superb technique; Richard is quite a bit taller with amazing reach and vast reserves of power. So the beta that worked for one of them didn't necessarily work for another, but they both managed to work up their own solutions to each problem.
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sawyl

August 2018

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