A gentle indoor session
Oct. 25th, 2017 06:15 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
sawylAfter a very lazy morning and with A busy this evening, I went down to the quay mid-afternoon for easy bit of climbing. I started working through some of Newberry's exercises: climbing with one foot off, trying different clipping combinations — all left-handed, all right-handed, all backhand, all forehand — with a focus on footwork and position.
As I was winding down, I bumped into Chef Paul and Nath, who were beasting it in the training room. I skipped the pull-up session — they were doing reps of as many pull-ups as possible, with anyone doing less than ten having to make the difference up in negatives — but I agree to opt into the core training parts of the program: leg-raises, jack knives, slow bicycles, etc.
While we were doing this, Charlie came to talk to Paul about someone who'd just back clipped every quickdraw on a route. While Paul was finishing his reps, I went out for a look and it was pretty damn impressive and obvious: the first QD, which I guess someone had pre-clipped, and the top were OK but the rest were all backward; so clearly so that Charlie, who identifies as boulderer rather than a route climber, was able to spot it.
While we were waiting, they did it again and Paul, despite being on his break, went to intervene. When he came back he mentioned that the not only were the people involved relatively old, but they didn't know why it was bad and were completely horrified when he showed them how it was possible for the rope to unclip itself in the event of a fall. It's worrying to think that they may well have been doing it for years and not realised! Paul says that's why, when they teach their lead climbing course, they make a point of showing people just what can happen when you back clip or when you try to make a clip a long way over your head...
As I was winding down, I bumped into Chef Paul and Nath, who were beasting it in the training room. I skipped the pull-up session — they were doing reps of as many pull-ups as possible, with anyone doing less than ten having to make the difference up in negatives — but I agree to opt into the core training parts of the program: leg-raises, jack knives, slow bicycles, etc.
While we were doing this, Charlie came to talk to Paul about someone who'd just back clipped every quickdraw on a route. While Paul was finishing his reps, I went out for a look and it was pretty damn impressive and obvious: the first QD, which I guess someone had pre-clipped, and the top were OK but the rest were all backward; so clearly so that Charlie, who identifies as boulderer rather than a route climber, was able to spot it.
While we were waiting, they did it again and Paul, despite being on his break, went to intervene. When he came back he mentioned that the not only were the people involved relatively old, but they didn't know why it was bad and were completely horrified when he showed them how it was possible for the rope to unclip itself in the event of a fall. It's worrying to think that they may well have been doing it for years and not realised! Paul says that's why, when they teach their lead climbing course, they make a point of showing people just what can happen when you back clip or when you try to make a clip a long way over your head...
