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Skiving and routes
Sep. 11th, 2013 06:14 pmAfter a busy morning at work, I left at lunch to sort out a few things at home and to go climbing. Coming from work, we cut such a dash at the quay — I was wearing my Cameron rig & R was sporting an LBD — that someone told us we looked like there for a high-powered business meeting.
After fuelling up, we hit the wall and climbed a bunch of stuff, surrounded by the organised chaos of the epic reset being carried out ahead of the second anniversary bash at the weekend. I successfully crossed a handful of 6as off my list without too much effort. Either I'm getting better or, as my inner sense of self-doubt keeps trying to convince me, the grades were on the generous side.
R was on good form & managed a particularly impressive send of a route where she had to stop in the middle and give herself a talking to. Sadly she failed to complete her current nemesis, a mere 5 which she almost completed a couple of months ago but now causes her to consistently choke on a move about a third of the way up. It's entirely a matter of confidence — she's unwilling to put her trust in a dinky little foothold for as long as it takes to transition her weight through to the next position. And because she knows there's a move she's not comfortable with coming up she gets a total block about it, whereas the first time she climbed it she breezed through as if it wasn't there.
Finishing up, we walked back along the river just as it was starting to rain. In the middle of our rather animated discussion about which way to go, a rather baffled looking guy listening to an iPod stopped and asked whether we'd been talking to him — apparently he thought the hand waving was directed at him — but fortunately we managed to apologise our way out of the situation and, while we were doing so, to eventually settle on a direction. Which, fortunately, turned out to be the correct one. Excelsior!
After fuelling up, we hit the wall and climbed a bunch of stuff, surrounded by the organised chaos of the epic reset being carried out ahead of the second anniversary bash at the weekend. I successfully crossed a handful of 6as off my list without too much effort. Either I'm getting better or, as my inner sense of self-doubt keeps trying to convince me, the grades were on the generous side.
R was on good form & managed a particularly impressive send of a route where she had to stop in the middle and give herself a talking to. Sadly she failed to complete her current nemesis, a mere 5 which she almost completed a couple of months ago but now causes her to consistently choke on a move about a third of the way up. It's entirely a matter of confidence — she's unwilling to put her trust in a dinky little foothold for as long as it takes to transition her weight through to the next position. And because she knows there's a move she's not comfortable with coming up she gets a total block about it, whereas the first time she climbed it she breezed through as if it wasn't there.
Finishing up, we walked back along the river just as it was starting to rain. In the middle of our rather animated discussion about which way to go, a rather baffled looking guy listening to an iPod stopped and asked whether we'd been talking to him — apparently he thought the hand waving was directed at him — but fortunately we managed to apologise our way out of the situation and, while we were doing so, to eventually settle on a direction. Which, fortunately, turned out to be the correct one. Excelsior!
