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A sedate evening of climbing
Sep. 30th, 2013 09:58 pmRelatively sedate evening of climbing with M, A and A's non-climbing girlfriend. After noodling around and helping A's girlfriend get a feel for the ropes, we all tried the new nemesis: a relatively long 6a+ with a very tricky transition through an overhang that I think I can see how to do but so far haven't actually been able to execute — I think it probably requires a bit of careful balance work and a big pull using the arete, but it's only theory so far.
After that we tried a few familiar routes with room for improvement. I finally put together the middle sequence of a route that I'd successfully completed but which didn't feel right and finished up with an old nemesis, a tough 6 that I've attempted umpteen times over the last few months and only every completed twice — and, judging by the large amounts of chalk on the first few holds and its complete absence from the top ones, I'm not the only one to find it difficult. But today's attempt felt noticeably different to my previous efforts. I drifted up the fingery bottom section smoothly and easily, I managed the transition through to the upper set of pinches without choking — my usual error — and polished of the top with no trouble at all. In fact the whole thing felt easy and left me with a end-of-session afterglow...
After that we tried a few familiar routes with room for improvement. I finally put together the middle sequence of a route that I'd successfully completed but which didn't feel right and finished up with an old nemesis, a tough 6 that I've attempted umpteen times over the last few months and only every completed twice — and, judging by the large amounts of chalk on the first few holds and its complete absence from the top ones, I'm not the only one to find it difficult. But today's attempt felt noticeably different to my previous efforts. I drifted up the fingery bottom section smoothly and easily, I managed the transition through to the upper set of pinches without choking — my usual error — and polished of the top with no trouble at all. In fact the whole thing felt easy and left me with a end-of-session afterglow...
