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Finishing projects
Aug. 18th, 2016 09:35 pmTaking the day off to catch up with things and sort out my travel for next month, I went for a run first thing and sweltered my way round my normal route. By the afternoon, I'd got everything sorted, and restlessness had set in so I decided to pop down to the Quay and try a few things.
With some encouragement from the usual gang, I channelled my inner ballerina and crushed a couple of projects by tweaking my beta. I sent the first by switching from a full dyno to something that was a bit more like a swing through with a mantel-like move and a throw for the target jug, cracking it with ease, using K's beta — which I'd picked up on Tuesday — to get the last couple of moves.
The second project featured a 6c with a nasty crux move close to the top that involved shifting from a small crimp out to a bad sloper. After correcting my footwork and, it must be said, giving both holds a good brush, I stuck the move only to peel off after using tall-person-beta and drifting out of balance going for the next hand. When I replaced this with a foot swap and a flag followed by the hand move, I nailed the route without any trouble at all.
After nominating two new projects to replace them and working the first couple of moves, I went home pleased at a day well spent.
With some encouragement from the usual gang, I channelled my inner ballerina and crushed a couple of projects by tweaking my beta. I sent the first by switching from a full dyno to something that was a bit more like a swing through with a mantel-like move and a throw for the target jug, cracking it with ease, using K's beta — which I'd picked up on Tuesday — to get the last couple of moves.
The second project featured a 6c with a nasty crux move close to the top that involved shifting from a small crimp out to a bad sloper. After correcting my footwork and, it must be said, giving both holds a good brush, I stuck the move only to peel off after using tall-person-beta and drifting out of balance going for the next hand. When I replaced this with a foot swap and a flag followed by the hand move, I nailed the route without any trouble at all.
After nominating two new projects to replace them and working the first couple of moves, I went home pleased at a day well spent.
