A trip to Bear Rock
Mar. 28th, 2016 12:00 pmTo Warwick university for a spot of post-party sports the morning. Tried out some of the boulder problems, which were enjoyable despite their reachiness. I got talking to someone who'd been climbing for over 50 years and who was still working away to improve his strength and technique.
It was interesting talking to him about trad which he said was very different to sport climbing, especially for people who'd learnt in the days before cams and hexes became available. He said trad required two completely different modes of thinking: while you were placing the gear, you needed to be absolutely focused on making it as safe as possible; but as soon as you started moving again you needed to forget about the quality of the protection and instead concentrate on the climbing.
It was interesting talking to him about trad which he said was very different to sport climbing, especially for people who'd learnt in the days before cams and hexes became available. He said trad required two completely different modes of thinking: while you were placing the gear, you needed to be absolutely focused on making it as safe as possible; but as soon as you started moving again you needed to forget about the quality of the protection and instead concentrate on the climbing.