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In keeping with my new plan to train harder, I went down to the Quay for a quiet practice. I did some light bouldering to warm up, failing to send my current project — I think my beta is wrong because my weight always seems to be in the wrong place to stick the move up to the final hold. I switched to doing some gentle training on the fingerboard, concentrating on doing hangs and pull-ups on the slopers rather than risking my tendons on the fingers.

After that I finished up with some movement circuits on the ten board — the volumes actually push a decent part of it out to something more like 30 degrees — concentrating on using pinches to get up and slopers to traverse along the top.

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sawyl

August 2018

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