Evening of stamina and lead training
Jun. 9th, 2016 08:25 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
sawylEvening of route climbing with L. I managed to persuade him to belay me on a route I'd seen the others attempting last Wednesday and found that I agreed with the general opinion on the grade: definitely more like 6b or 6b+ than the 6a+ the board claimed. Sadly I failed to flash it after my foot slipped off the first move of my first attempt, but I got it on my second attempt even though I almost missed a key foothold — in my defence, it was absolutely tiny!
I also tried out Chef Paul's new clipping method on some proper lead routes and found that it worked just as well in for real as it had in practice. I didn't do anything particularly taxing but the routes felt pretty smooth and I noticed that I was climbing with something close to my TR level of confidence. To round the evening off, I flashed a 6b top rope which featured a very nice crux which featured a smear on a big pinch on the arete.
I also tried out Chef Paul's new clipping method on some proper lead routes and found that it worked just as well in for real as it had in practice. I didn't do anything particularly taxing but the routes felt pretty smooth and I noticed that I was climbing with something close to my TR level of confidence. To round the evening off, I flashed a 6b top rope which featured a very nice crux which featured a smear on a big pinch on the arete.
