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[personal profile] sawyl
I was planning to run this evening, but K caught me at lunch and we arranged to go for a climb. The humidity was astonishing but we had a good time, trying a few new routes and investigating a couple of the older ones neither of us had done. I surprised myself by sending a 6c with a big dyno — from a crap screwon foot up to a big positive sloper that looks like nothing quite so much as a bum! We also tried a couple of the longer routes up the pillar, where I declared myself too tired for a tough 6c whose first section was composed of nothing but a series of powerful compression moves.

At the very end we worked an intriguing 6b+ route featuring a balancy move up to a taijitu volume in the middle and what I thought was a big rocker and dynamic move up to a flake but which K correct read as a rockover, move up to an intermediate hold, up to the flake and then a mantle on the volume. Neither of us had any idea how to finish the route because the last two holds on the upper slabby section lacked anything that might be considered a foothold...

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sawyl

August 2018

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