Crushing the new boulders
Oct. 7th, 2016 08:58 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
sawylThe focus on strength and stamina training over the last couple of weeks really came into its own today when I surprised myself by flashing almost all the new boulders below 7A.
I made hard work a 6A after mis-reading the instructions: I started with matched hands on a sloper, a heel hook in, cranked hard on it to go up for a pinch, and only then went for the positive side-pull which was one of the intended starting holds. Not that it mattered. I flashed the problem and it provided with two solid lessons: that I can get an awful lot of power behind a heel hook; and that I ought to check the starting instructions before pulling on to anything!
After a couple of hours, I still had enough left in the tank to finish with 10-12 routes on the auto-belays, down-climbing the easier stuff to get a bit of training in. I even found time to work on my current project, a tricky series of hard slopers, which, to my delight, had been upgraded from 6c to 7a...
I made hard work a 6A after mis-reading the instructions: I started with matched hands on a sloper, a heel hook in, cranked hard on it to go up for a pinch, and only then went for the positive side-pull which was one of the intended starting holds. Not that it mattered. I flashed the problem and it provided with two solid lessons: that I can get an awful lot of power behind a heel hook; and that I ought to check the starting instructions before pulling on to anything!
After a couple of hours, I still had enough left in the tank to finish with 10-12 routes on the auto-belays, down-climbing the easier stuff to get a bit of training in. I even found time to work on my current project, a tricky series of hard slopers, which, to my delight, had been upgraded from 6c to 7a...
