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Friday climbing during which I repeated a tough slab route which mixed powerful mantels on big slopers with the smallest, tiniest holds. I was a little bit worried because it'd been upgraded from an absurdly hard 6b when I first beta-ed it to 7a, but in the end, although I definitely had to work for it, I certainly wasn't at my absolute limits.

I also nailed a very tough, very delicate, very technical 6c+ on my second attempt. In some ways it was harder than the 7a which at least featured a couple of hands-off rests on some of the big slopers; this, instead, featured a whole load of bad crimps on really tiny feet, increasing my motivation to send it so that I'd never have to do it again! After coming down, I belayed A on a 6a on the same line and it wasn't until she was halfway up that I realised her mum had been watching from the gallery the whole time. Just as well; I think if I'd known, it'd've thrown me off my game!

Towards the end of the session, I also picked a 6a on the edge of the slab. The route was difficult to read, the holds were extremely fingery from the very start, and the whole thing was quite technical. It wasn't exactly a good choice for a final route of the day...

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sawyl

August 2018

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