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After a gentle day, I met up with A for an evening of climbing. We'd been there for about half an hour, warming up and trying A's project, before A's father joined us. After signing him in and picking up a load of stuff, I fished out my grigri and we worked our way through some easy routes, with the two of us taking it in turns to belay C. As might be expected, he was rather good and extremely determined and we all had a thoroughly enjoyable evening.

Towards the end, A retried her project. Having put together all the moves yesterday, she'd managed to get climb the route in two sections at the start of today's session. The move that was defeating her was probably the true crux — for anyone with decent flexibility and reach, that is! — which involved moved up over an overhang on a pair of less than brilliant open handed crimps. The move didn't bother me at all — a couple of weeks ago, I'd sat and rested on them for a few minutes to allow room for the person on the neighbouring route to finish a section that overlapped slightly — but, objectively, it's actually reasonably tough.

After cruising the first section with the spanning moves, A got to first tenuous spot and got her hands in the right position and bridged out wide before going for the first of the crimps — my beta is very different: I lean back into a shoulder move to get my feet up, get both hands on the crimps and reset my feet on a hold directly below and put in a knee drop against the wall. This time, she got her feet solid, held both the crimps and moved up to next hold, which she'd dropped in the past, and, after a slightly nervous moment, stuck it and pulled through to send the route. Amazing stuff!

She then persuaded C to give it a try. Despite being able to bridge the first move, he found all the weight shifting and footwork a bit tough — wearing hire shoes can't have helped! — and didn't make it past the move I'd struggled with, albeit for different reasons. If the intention was to convince him of the route's difficulty, I think A succeeded in her goal!

Once we were done climbing, I was able to talk the others into doing a spot of bouldering — A is not a fan and I'm far more focused on route climbing at the moment — partly to work on power and technique, and because, whenever you've got someone who hasn't climbed before, you're pretty much obliged to show them the whole range of activities from strength to endurance. After that, we dropped into the training room where C powered up the drainpipe campus ladder — something that is solidly beyond me — while A tucked her knee into a resistance band worked on Project Pull-Up (her goal is to do five unassisted pull-ups by the end of the year)

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August 2018

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