Taking it gently...
Jan. 23rd, 2015 05:31 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
sawylRounded yesterday off with a nice climb with R — just what I needed to cheer myself up and put various things out of my mind. All the bouldering had been taken down ahead of a couple of comps at the weekend so I warmed myself on the circuit board, concentrating on keeping my moves fluid and my footwork silent. I had a vague impression that someone had come in partway through but I was so focused that it wasn't until I got to the end that I realised that R had been slipped in and was waiting for me to finish.
We started easy, although I skipped the first 2 and 3 on the grounds that I'd warmed up on the board, and we then moved to something a bit more interesting including two new 6a/a+ routes in the corner. The first seems really hard until you realise that you can actually treat them big boulder problems by smearing and hand-foot matching your way up, while the other is just a combination of crimps and very dished footholds that look far worse than they actually are.
We then climbed a few more corner routes and I did a couple of 6b+ routes, noticing while I was on the way down that the intimidating lead route over the arch I'd been projecting had gone as part of the grand reset. I wasn't particularly disappointed: I'd been able to reach the point where I was safely clipped out onto the roof and got to the point where I'd cut loose and rearranged my feet ready to climb up the face only to find myself struggling with the psychology of going for the first clip on the face. Hopefully they'll set something similarly difficult in the same area that I'll be able to do because I won't have the same mental baggage; because I'm pretty sure I can do all the moves if I can only nerve myself up to commit to them.
We started easy, although I skipped the first 2 and 3 on the grounds that I'd warmed up on the board, and we then moved to something a bit more interesting including two new 6a/a+ routes in the corner. The first seems really hard until you realise that you can actually treat them big boulder problems by smearing and hand-foot matching your way up, while the other is just a combination of crimps and very dished footholds that look far worse than they actually are.
We then climbed a few more corner routes and I did a couple of 6b+ routes, noticing while I was on the way down that the intimidating lead route over the arch I'd been projecting had gone as part of the grand reset. I wasn't particularly disappointed: I'd been able to reach the point where I was safely clipped out onto the roof and got to the point where I'd cut loose and rearranged my feet ready to climb up the face only to find myself struggling with the psychology of going for the first clip on the face. Hopefully they'll set something similarly difficult in the same area that I'll be able to do because I won't have the same mental baggage; because I'm pretty sure I can do all the moves if I can only nerve myself up to commit to them.
