Olympos Climbing: Day 6
Oct. 20th, 2017 10:50 pmThe last few mornings have been genuinely chilly, not just by Turkish standards but, with temperatuers in single digits, by English standards for mid-October. Fortunately, although breakfast doesn't start until eight, probably because that's when the bread van arrives, they generally start setting up a good deal early, and the setup involves getting the samovar going and, more importantly, stoking up the wood burner.

The stove is actually a converted oil drum with a flue braised on to it and a little rack on top for toasting bread. The staff fire it when they get up and chuck in some big logs around the time breakfast starts, so if you get there early, it's like sitting next to a nuclear reactor — a blessed relief given the weather — and considerable attention is needed to prevent your toast from turning into a carbonised ruin.
With quite a few of the crowd suffering a recurrence of poor health, the group split in two with the sufferers staying back at base with a plan to climb at the wall behind the tree houses, while the more daring of us headed down to the crag beyond the beach, which the two Toms had scouted out on Wednesday. With some uncertainty over the distance, I set my Garmin going and tracked the walk down. Sure enough, Newberry's internal TomTom was spot on: he estimated two miles and I measured it as three kilometres to the supermarket where we'd stopped the night before. As Coras had said during the night taxi ride, it really was much quicker to walk along the beach than to drive round via the road.
C and I warmed up with mileage on some slabs, inevitably starting with the most difficult one, while AB and H started with a couple of 6s round the corner. Coras was eager to try an 8b extension above one of the slabs but both he and Newberry concluded that it wasn't all that great and their enthusiasm drained away and they moved back to slightly easier stuff.

Coras climbing one of the slab extensions. The route up the tufa was, I think something like 7b to (barely visible) tatty green rope, and maybe 8a to the anchor.
After we'd done a couple of routes, K and W joined us, having got up slightly later and followed Newberry's directions to the crag: walk along the beach, turn left, follow the road to the bridge, and head for the big cliff. Seems to have worked, because they got there raring to go.

Coras redpointing the extension to the extension, while W climbs the first of the slabs — I think it was graded 4, while the others were in the low 5 range. Even though it's only 10:30 in the morning, the routes have already started to come into the sun...

...fortunately, the belay positions were still shaded, giving some relief from the sun which, in stark contrast to the cold start first thing, was really quite hot. The wall behind K and Newberry features a very short 8 which looks like nothing quite so much a brutal boulder problem. Needless to say no-one was greatly minded to attempt it!
While K and W completed the slabs, C and I moved round the corner to do a slabby 5c and a 6b. The 5 had a high first bolt, which I declined to have pre-clipped for me, and featured a hard-to-read middle section where the holds weren't at all obvious. It was actually a pretty easy flash, although I have a feeling C might have decided to top rope it — although I might be doing him a grave mis-service!
H told me to try the 6b which ran up the right hand crack next to the the 5c slab. The route featured a nice start and got tricky and cruxy in the middle — H said she'd popped off — where you had to make a clip from a poor sloper on the left hand. It was sketchier than I'd've liked, but I managed to nail it and stick the next couple of tricky moves to flash the route. I was extremely pleased and it seemed a good not to end the trip on.

W climbing the 5c slab while K belays and C looks on. I pre-clipped the first bolt for W — I'd spurned it for myself, but then I wasn't climbing with my mum and I didn't want K to have to worry about it — but I felt bad about it when he stalled out on the next move, depriving him of the opportunity to put in at least one of the clips on the route.
Despite thinking was done for the day, it turns out I wasn't quite: with W unable to make it up the slab, someone needed to clean the route. So, of course, I volunteered. The route was a positive cruise, and I rethreaded and was back down on the ground in next to no time. And with the sun full on the rock by this point, it felt like a nice way end the climbing part of the holiday.

The crag forms one side of a dry river bed.
On the way back out, we stopped at the truly excellent bakery on the main road where everyone had either biscuits of pastries, with most going back for seconds. Coras and I both went for simits, which, as notorious bagel fan, I liked very much. The place also featured an excellent lavatory, which I used to get changed ready for the beach.
On the walk down, we stopped at the market where I finally picked up a postcard for A — who collects them and whttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rfZ40NhF1WbHyvHha1Jw1WEnhIrpmElggxeHpuJEbOGnGam4ckvST1akCQIOZ4FUGoRtGvxgbLESVmLHJKZzidcESLiV0JhUtGJwvIWIGrqYbRT91H0mdUKhI67-WxIP788xVMlagZhKmyUvSsFLixPZg0B_P7f9mMuupJsL7AZGfH53v6do1Q4uDd4y-qGFI3XP0qGgqEb8TCbzIvmZW63ZllLJY28kzyyTo8iJpq4MMSYfGx6akcjQtBD4ShPgLlWvHwsHjtkRoKTdYY3rxgmcRoycPqayxOLPjaRJ__uwiKSSKuEHsVLdCFoeQzRPueIHYqAZ18c_sSjZmYvcAw-epMELbPtYqv1gn5TUhk0RxaIvC8rw5jweOrj-Q2kq1F0sjhUwNjtA_0JWX7eohG0U2N-S8cVxXM0kWXY3zWXeEybi3alcAx-YmRzAWLxk5ujlDsHckAx74RVV8OFtCtigXcSepRhQRvePCHQaSjiUioZYHBqgdg0rqS3lrhIiMUY4vrnMVikVmQWwOU1XCi48TnfZJEg3JWwo2UaRHgoEZ_HkxQJ4yUHMoOI1TpdafWtcEx38zxkcN6WU5PMXxka5dfYJJBZ6D-jK2bI_rL2zKObxcotiGMEBqZfPNE8v5HResAvpR8nnOxEBpDVEiM8XbpMzIhA_fCw=w1567-h1176-noho has given me orders to get her something. Maybe it's the time or year, or maybe it's the rise of the internet, but almost all the postcards I've seen have been curling and faded and have clearly seen better days. Fortunately, I was able to find a fresh-looking card showing the eternal flames, leaving me feeling as though a great weight has been lifted. (Apparently I don't have to actually post the thing; it is acceptable for me to wait until I get home and drop it in by hand, so at least I don't have to worry about stamps or differentiating a Turkish postbox from a litter bin)
Arriving at the beach, we spotted W & K, who'd gone ahead and were just finishing up after taking a dip. Newberry, H and C decided to stake out a spot in one of the cafes while AH, Coras and I checked out the water. As is all to typical, I stripped off, walked in, and immediately powered out 30-40 metres — I may not be at peak swimming fitness these days, but I'm still a very strong swimmer it seems — where I stopped and trod water waiting for the other two.
A stayed in the shallows, wading out to waist depth, but I wasn't terribly surprised: he's mentioned before that he can't really swim and I seem to remember from last year that he wouldn't really allow the water up beyond chest height. Coras was similar reticent and contented himself with standing in the see and sticking his head in the water; he's mentioned that he gets hot because he's got quite thick hair — something A and I both told him to enjoy while it lasts! — so I guess that explains the manoeuvre. Realising that the others weren't actually going to swim, I struck out for shore, dried myself off, and headed up to the cafe where the others were all firmly ensconced.
While the others favoured a table and food, H and I sat on a swing and stuck with drinks — pomegranate juice and tea respectively — while we wiled away the time. We were both particularly intrigued by the strange little hummingbird-like creatures which kept on visiting the flowers and H encouraged me to try and take a photo of them.

It took the long-distance lens and a couple of attempts but I was able to capture a couple of good close-ups of the little creatures. (Subsequent checking on wikipedia, which seems to be blocked in Turkey, revealed they were hummingbird hawk-moths. Given their distribution, I'm surprised I've never seen one before)
With the sun starting to creep round and the beach beginning to fall into shade, we returned to Kadir's in time to catch AH and J before they left for the airport. They've both got (different) weddings to go to tomorrow, so they needed to fly back tonight to get their in time — although both had tight schedules in the UK, involving night drives and the desperate hope that whoever they were relying on to bring their suits had them ready for them.
We had a gentle evening, with some people still feeling a little subdued. E was up and about even though she felt a little disappointed with her climbing this week, she seemed better than she has been for a while — although she's still lost so much weight that her shorts, which fitted at the start of the holiday, are practically falling off her.
Newberry and Gav had planned to give us a debrief on our performance, but decided to defer it until breakfast tomorrow. That said, Tom did say that E and I were the most improved over the week — I'm pleased given that I've led once since Kalymnos and climbed outdoors not at all — and we got into a useful discussion about our on-sight grade versus the hardest thing we've climbed. Interestingly, my regular on-sight grade and hardest ever grade are very close, indicating that I should be projecting things 2-3 grades harder than anything I'm currently climbing.
I think I'm going to try and follow up on that when I get back: push myself to lead harder climbs and focus on trying to get up into the mid-7s. Because although I'm not really interested in pushing my grade for the sake of it, I'd like to be able to climb harder stuff because it opens up a lot more routes outdoors and means I'm more confortable on stuff that's well within my ability range — like the 6b this morning. I'm acute aware that, although I powered out on a 6a on Tuesday when I was starting to feel rough, I haven't climbed anything this week that has pushed me close to the limits of my stamina or made me feel anything like pumped.
With quite a few of the crowd suffering a recurrence of poor health, the group split in two with the sufferers staying back at base with a plan to climb at the wall behind the tree houses, while the more daring of us headed down to the crag beyond the beach, which the two Toms had scouted out on Wednesday. With some uncertainty over the distance, I set my Garmin going and tracked the walk down. Sure enough, Newberry's internal TomTom was spot on: he estimated two miles and I measured it as three kilometres to the supermarket where we'd stopped the night before. As Coras had said during the night taxi ride, it really was much quicker to walk along the beach than to drive round via the road.
C and I warmed up with mileage on some slabs, inevitably starting with the most difficult one, while AB and H started with a couple of 6s round the corner. Coras was eager to try an 8b extension above one of the slabs but both he and Newberry concluded that it wasn't all that great and their enthusiasm drained away and they moved back to slightly easier stuff.
After we'd done a couple of routes, K and W joined us, having got up slightly later and followed Newberry's directions to the crag: walk along the beach, turn left, follow the road to the bridge, and head for the big cliff. Seems to have worked, because they got there raring to go.
While K and W completed the slabs, C and I moved round the corner to do a slabby 5c and a 6b. The 5 had a high first bolt, which I declined to have pre-clipped for me, and featured a hard-to-read middle section where the holds weren't at all obvious. It was actually a pretty easy flash, although I have a feeling C might have decided to top rope it — although I might be doing him a grave mis-service!
H told me to try the 6b which ran up the right hand crack next to the the 5c slab. The route featured a nice start and got tricky and cruxy in the middle — H said she'd popped off — where you had to make a clip from a poor sloper on the left hand. It was sketchier than I'd've liked, but I managed to nail it and stick the next couple of tricky moves to flash the route. I was extremely pleased and it seemed a good not to end the trip on.
Despite thinking was done for the day, it turns out I wasn't quite: with W unable to make it up the slab, someone needed to clean the route. So, of course, I volunteered. The route was a positive cruise, and I rethreaded and was back down on the ground in next to no time. And with the sun full on the rock by this point, it felt like a nice way end the climbing part of the holiday.
On the way back out, we stopped at the truly excellent bakery on the main road where everyone had either biscuits of pastries, with most going back for seconds. Coras and I both went for simits, which, as notorious bagel fan, I liked very much. The place also featured an excellent lavatory, which I used to get changed ready for the beach.
On the walk down, we stopped at the market where I finally picked up a postcard for A — who collects them and whttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rfZ40NhF1WbHyvHha1Jw1WEnhIrpmElggxeHpuJEbOGnGam4ckvST1akCQIOZ4FUGoRtGvxgbLESVmLHJKZzidcESLiV0JhUtGJwvIWIGrqYbRT91H0mdUKhI67-WxIP788xVMlagZhKmyUvSsFLixPZg0B_P7f9mMuupJsL7AZGfH53v6do1Q4uDd4y-qGFI3XP0qGgqEb8TCbzIvmZW63ZllLJY28kzyyTo8iJpq4MMSYfGx6akcjQtBD4ShPgLlWvHwsHjtkRoKTdYY3rxgmcRoycPqayxOLPjaRJ__uwiKSSKuEHsVLdCFoeQzRPueIHYqAZ18c_sSjZmYvcAw-epMELbPtYqv1gn5TUhk0RxaIvC8rw5jweOrj-Q2kq1F0sjhUwNjtA_0JWX7eohG0U2N-S8cVxXM0kWXY3zWXeEybi3alcAx-YmRzAWLxk5ujlDsHckAx74RVV8OFtCtigXcSepRhQRvePCHQaSjiUioZYHBqgdg0rqS3lrhIiMUY4vrnMVikVmQWwOU1XCi48TnfZJEg3JWwo2UaRHgoEZ_HkxQJ4yUHMoOI1TpdafWtcEx38zxkcN6WU5PMXxka5dfYJJBZ6D-jK2bI_rL2zKObxcotiGMEBqZfPNE8v5HResAvpR8nnOxEBpDVEiM8XbpMzIhA_fCw=w1567-h1176-noho has given me orders to get her something. Maybe it's the time or year, or maybe it's the rise of the internet, but almost all the postcards I've seen have been curling and faded and have clearly seen better days. Fortunately, I was able to find a fresh-looking card showing the eternal flames, leaving me feeling as though a great weight has been lifted. (Apparently I don't have to actually post the thing; it is acceptable for me to wait until I get home and drop it in by hand, so at least I don't have to worry about stamps or differentiating a Turkish postbox from a litter bin)
Arriving at the beach, we spotted W & K, who'd gone ahead and were just finishing up after taking a dip. Newberry, H and C decided to stake out a spot in one of the cafes while AH, Coras and I checked out the water. As is all to typical, I stripped off, walked in, and immediately powered out 30-40 metres — I may not be at peak swimming fitness these days, but I'm still a very strong swimmer it seems — where I stopped and trod water waiting for the other two.
A stayed in the shallows, wading out to waist depth, but I wasn't terribly surprised: he's mentioned before that he can't really swim and I seem to remember from last year that he wouldn't really allow the water up beyond chest height. Coras was similar reticent and contented himself with standing in the see and sticking his head in the water; he's mentioned that he gets hot because he's got quite thick hair — something A and I both told him to enjoy while it lasts! — so I guess that explains the manoeuvre. Realising that the others weren't actually going to swim, I struck out for shore, dried myself off, and headed up to the cafe where the others were all firmly ensconced.
While the others favoured a table and food, H and I sat on a swing and stuck with drinks — pomegranate juice and tea respectively — while we wiled away the time. We were both particularly intrigued by the strange little hummingbird-like creatures which kept on visiting the flowers and H encouraged me to try and take a photo of them.
With the sun starting to creep round and the beach beginning to fall into shade, we returned to Kadir's in time to catch AH and J before they left for the airport. They've both got (different) weddings to go to tomorrow, so they needed to fly back tonight to get their in time — although both had tight schedules in the UK, involving night drives and the desperate hope that whoever they were relying on to bring their suits had them ready for them.
We had a gentle evening, with some people still feeling a little subdued. E was up and about even though she felt a little disappointed with her climbing this week, she seemed better than she has been for a while — although she's still lost so much weight that her shorts, which fitted at the start of the holiday, are practically falling off her.
Newberry and Gav had planned to give us a debrief on our performance, but decided to defer it until breakfast tomorrow. That said, Tom did say that E and I were the most improved over the week — I'm pleased given that I've led once since Kalymnos and climbed outdoors not at all — and we got into a useful discussion about our on-sight grade versus the hardest thing we've climbed. Interestingly, my regular on-sight grade and hardest ever grade are very close, indicating that I should be projecting things 2-3 grades harder than anything I'm currently climbing.
I think I'm going to try and follow up on that when I get back: push myself to lead harder climbs and focus on trying to get up into the mid-7s. Because although I'm not really interested in pushing my grade for the sake of it, I'd like to be able to climb harder stuff because it opens up a lot more routes outdoors and means I'm more confortable on stuff that's well within my ability range — like the 6b this morning. I'm acute aware that, although I powered out on a 6a on Tuesday when I was starting to feel rough, I haven't climbed anything this week that has pushed me close to the limits of my stamina or made me feel anything like pumped.